THE HARPER’S BAZAAR TEXTILE SHOW PRESENTED EIGHT MULMUL COLLECTIONS BY TOP DESIGNERS AT LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK SUMMER/RESORT 2015

19 March, 2015, Mumbai: Giving impetus to its new initiative “Bazaar Inspires”, by Harper’s Bazaar, the globally renowned fashion magazine presented eight designers’ collections created from Mulmul as the focal point during Indian Handlooms and Textile Day at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015.

“Bazaar Inspires” is an annual project that aims at spreading awareness about Indian textiles, and the beautiful favourite of all – Mulmul – was the chosen one this season. Eight Indian evening wear designers were challenged to turn the humble fabric into stunning formal wear creations. Each designer presented four glamorous evening ensembles and turned Mulmul into a Red Carpet eye-catcher.

ANAND BHUSHAN

Known for his ultimate fabric texturing and innovations in manipulation, Anand Bhushan’s all white collection simply called “Mulmul” turned the favourite Indian textile into an urban offering with contemporary treatment. Blending it with glass, Anand formed varying houndstooth patterns on the garments to add a distinct flavour. Splashing the creations with cutwork in drapes, soft feminine constructions, comfy fitted options for silhouettes that offered excellent construction, Anand presented a sleek line. A drop waist dress, Jodhpur pants, shirt worn with beaded jacket, a belted long sleeve shirt-waist dress and sari in solid and cutwork fabrics, sparkled with beads. The mature Indian woman will adore Anand Bhushan’s reinterpreted style for Mulmul when she chooses it for formal soirées.

ANAND BHUSHAN

SIDDHARTHA TYTLER

Inspired by the word ‘Chaos’, Siddhartha Tytler’s Mulmul looks were a quartet of glamorous creations. Random black and white digital prints sparkled on the garments. The soft traditional Mulmul went through some texturing from Siddhartha as he added quilting, his signature pin tucking, crystallising and laser cutting to give a contemporary flavour to the creations. The quilted gown, will-power bustier and tulip quilted skirt, silver embroidered quilted skirt over a cutwork top with black palazzos told a different Mulmul story. Structured silhouettes were bold yet rigid, making the ensembles ideal for the trendy buyer who adores some experimental dressing.

SIDDHARTHA TYTLER

SAILEX

Sailex known for his grand Red Carpet creations gave the traditional Mulmul his signature treatment turning it into glam evening wear possibilities. Adding seductive black embroidery, which has been Sailex’s trademark; the four creations that glided down the ramp had a marked structured look with great flare that gave India’s favourite fabric a new fashionable avatar. Black net and mul sheer gown, a plunge neck gown with sheer back, bralet with a midi pencil skirt and a plunge neck tail-coat jacket with sheer sided pant, was an all black fantasy.

SAILEX

HEMANT AND NANDITA

Inspired by the land which is known as the Paradise of India – Kashmir – Hemant and Nandita turned the simple Mulmul into a fashion fabric with surface ornamention. Called ‘Blooming Woods’ the four garments had unconventional embroidery and brought in the 70’s look with digital touches for gore skirts, kotis or waistcoats, embroidered cropped tops, jackets, boho capes and dresses. The printed long sleeve mini, flared skirt with bell-sleeved cropped top, tiered mini with bolero, shorts and tank with a cover were great creations in Mulmul. Earth tones of brown, dull grey and deep green were highlighted by sea green and tangerine. Flowers, which were the key feature of the line, exuded a blossoming aura around the line.

HEMANT AND NANDITA

ANUPAMAA DAYAL

Making a complete surprise fashion detour from her usual comfort zone of resort and cruise line where she is an expert; Anupamaa Dayal went down the Red Carpet with her “Angelina Jolie” collection. The designer gave Mulmul her favourite summer fabric; a glitzy, glam treatment and turned the cool textile into fitted sexy gowns. Shades of seductive red, black, sizzling pink, neon yellow, and lemon were ideal choices for the slinky floral off-shoulder floor kissing number with large bow. The yellow/blue print gown, floral black halter and one-shoulder pink printed number were part of the sexy line. Detailing was with tantalising frills, cascading ruffles, gorgeous floral embellishments like a single fluffy chrysanthemum, plunging necklines and sweeping trails.

ANUPAMAA DAYAL

RABANI AND RAKHA

Rabani and Rakha, the very creative pair turned the soft Mulmul into glamorous silhouettes - a sensuous gown, a striking lehenga sari and a sexy lace body suit with luxurious Mulmul drapes. The colour choice was shades of peach to add that stylish fashion quotient to the garments. The tiered peach lehenga would serve as ideal formal wear with dupatta and choli. A lush red sari with gold border and tights, red one-shoulder gown splashed with gold paisley border and the final peach layered lehenga, choli and dupatta were glamorous festive wear.  Feminine and very sexy the creations were ideal for that impressive entry on any global style carpet.

RABANI AND RAKHA

DEV r NIL

Inspired by the falling autumn leaves with their earthy tones, the capsule collection of four outfits by Dev r Nil recreated nature’s beauty for the garments. Gauze work, appliqués and cutwork added to the beauty of the ensembles; while the changing shades of the leaves appeared as ikat borders and stripes to highlight the hand woven Mulmul. Skirt with falling leaves appliqué worn with asymmetric top, autumn leaves on black printed bodice teamed with red/black shaded pant, striped red/black giant poncho and the striped maxi with floral sheer detailing were stunners. Red in monochrome was the preferred colour for the fluid silhouettes that flowed from the constructed bodices giving the outfits an almost ethereal look.

DEV r NIL

 RAAKESH AGARVWAL

Aimed at the boho chic young woman – a global traveller who is at home in Brazil, Miami, Mexico, Venezuela, or the South of France, Raakesh Agarvwal’s four ensembles had a glam international flavour. Using Mulmul in colours like sunset yellow, saffron and tangerine - all hot summer hues - he gave a contemporary relaxed vibe to the garments. A great slouchy jumpsuit had all the signs of summer comfort, while the tangerine will-power dress was an eye-catcher on the ramp. The two sexy panelled gowns completed the foursome, which any girl would love to grab for her fun holiday.

RAAKESH AGARVWAL

Kiran Uttam Ghosh and Deepika Govind brought the beauty of traditional crafts and tetiles into the limelight at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015

New Fashionable Feminine Directions Were The Keynote Of Kiran Uttam Ghosh's Collection At Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015

Mumbai, 19 March, 2015: A Kiran Uttam Ghosh show is always an adventure into the world of creative fashion. Her Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015 collection was feminine, delicate with inspiring silhouettes in a gentle colour palette.

Revisiting the past and inspired by the sights, sounds and fragrances that were her memories, Kiran worked with khadi, a fabric her grandmother used to spin. Working around silhouettes that showed tantalising shoulders or elegant collar ones, Kiran's clothes spoke a simple dignified fashion language.

Global shapes were blended effortlessly with beautiful hand crafted traditional textiles; while heritage played a major role in the form of embellishments that glittered discreetly on the garments.

The textiles offered a multitude of options with Maheshwari, Bengal Dhakai, Chanderi, Benares brocade, kimkhab, Fulia, Taant weaves and ikat, which were perfectly balanced with modern fabrics like georgette, crépe, jersey and perma pleated ones. The colours were a melange of ivory, oyster, nude, powder blue, fresh coral, lipstick red, blackberry, aubergine and gold.

Kiran Uttam Ghosh

The silhouettes were very western in nature with permanent pleated dresses, trousers, plain white shirts, racer back vests, ponchos, fluted lines, slouchy tents and a collection of saris in handlooms that completed the line. 

Starting the show with soft pastels for draped sari with embroidered choli, Kiran moved to Maheshwari cape over blue jersey dress and then added a blue Bengal Taant tent. Moving into a stronger colour palette, the mix of blackberry and aubergine with navy was great for a floral tent. The Banaras skirt with white shirt and obi belt was an unconventional story, while the red Dhakai dress with high slits over gold pleated dress and pants were stunners. The mix of fabrics and the intriguing fusion silhouettes added to the charm and beauty of the collection.

Bringing the past to the present, to create future fashion, Kiran Uttam Ghosh presented a sensuous but beautiful line for the fashion conscious buyers.

Deepika Govind's Journey Into The Land Of Blue Was A Fashionable Odessey At Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015

Inspired by a mythical yogi's memoirs in the land of Blue Kutch, Deepika Govind's collection called "The Memoir of a Yogi who Loved Blue" was a fascinating colourful vision at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015.

Using the attire of the beautiful women of Kutch as her 'blueprint', Deepika followed their silhouettes – long fluid belted dresses of the Khatri tribe. Layered weaves were embellished with handcrafted tribal ornaments; while the organic Kala Cotton formed the basis of the garments.

Fine Bandhani, tie and dye, Shibori, Ajrakh, centuries old resist print craft in organic dyes, and the ancient Rogan art of hand painting that looked like fine embroidery was the final icing on the ensembles and added to the rustic rural charm of the creations. The Farek and gussets incorporated by Deepika enhanced the beauty of the collection. 

Deepika Govind

With such a rich heritage backing the garments, it was but natural that Deepika's colours were earthy and natural. Mid blue, organic kora, Rudraksh and desert brown, burgundy, mustard and mineral red dazzled on the ramp.

Bandhani was used as placement design and appeared on various parts of the garments to highlight their beauty. It looked fabulous on a one- shoulder dress or a blue Bandhani cover with asymmetrical hem. Mirror work was seen prominently on yokes, long sleeve gown, bolero and the line of sarong pleated skirts with waistcoats were an innovative look at fusion wear with traditional touches.

Added to the glamour of the line were the specially designed striking leather accessories by Risa and shoes by Heel and Buckle.

When the 21st century fashionista wants to take a walk down folklore lane; "The Memoirs of a Yogi who Loved Blue" collection by Deepika Govind will add a new dimension and colour to her wardrobe.

Day Two ended with a Stylish Fashion Presentation By Raghavendra Rathore at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015

Mumbai, 19 March 2015: When it comes to regal, sophisticated collections that rival those worn by royalty, Raghavendra Rathore had the perfect offering when his show closed Day Two at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015.

From diffusion to bespoke dressing and promotion of rural crafts, the slick display featured three brands offered by a single designer. 

Raghavendra Rathore

 The "Imperial India Company" is the ready-to-wear designer diffusion label, by Raghavendra, which was inspired by the Raj and featured Indo-Western styling. Here were affordable clothes that exuded a marked elegance and aristocratic character, which will appeal to the discreet dresser.

Raghavendra Rathore

Two-button off-white jacket, brocade Sherwani, black five-button Jodhpur coat, bundgala with printed shirt and red trouser as well as the two-button grey suit were superbly finished ensembles. Colour came in the form of brown bundi with orange kurta, a spark of white cuffs for mandarin collar shirt, dapper Pathani suit, sherwani with pink cuffs and black velvet collar and the final white tuxedo with satin shawl lapel, were perfect wardrobe additions.

Raghavendra Rathore

"Raghavendra Rathore Foundation" which is a celebration of hope was not only a line for a humanitarian initiative aimed to give the disadvantaged support, but also provide a stable livelihood and promote rural handicraft. Here the opening of the segment was with formal women's wear featuring red/gold cover over red draped lehenga, a black/gold gown, shimmering Sherwani with a black organza skirt. But it was the men's wear that was dramatic as male models marched in wearing identical Jodhpuri trousers and bandgala jackets in gold, red, pink, blue, green, purple, fuchsia, navy, black and white; then stopped in the centre of the ramp, stripped down to white T-shirts with the slogan "Je Suis L'Amour" written on them.

Raghavendra Rathore with Ritesh Deshmukh

Finally the "Raghavendra Rathore" bespoke custom clothing menswear collection projected the ultimate in fashion with traditional looks blended into modern day elegance, which the designer unveiled to a very appreciative audience. Jodhpuri bandgalas and breeches along with black printed kurta, brocade Sherwani and shimmering Jodhpur coat made a striking appearance on the catwalk. Wide dhoti salwars, black and gold angarkha, and off-white kurta with black dhoti, revealed the bespoke/customer clothing menswear label that Raghavendra is known for.

Ritesh Deshmukh for Raghvendra Rathore

Making a heart shopping, show stopping, entry on the ramp was the handsome, Bollywood star, Ritesh Deshmukh who strutted down in a brocade Nehru jacket, black kurta and white churidars.

Using the finest traditional textiles for each brand, which were exclusively woven in the Brahmaputra region; Raghavendra Rathore's collection celebrated India's rich heritage and textiles that are aimed at buyers who want to add that touch of class to their personal fashion statements.

Lakme Fashion Week Summer Resort - Day 2 Part 1

AARTI VIJAY GUPTA’S “INDIAN MINIATURES” COLLECTION CREATED A MAXIMUM STYLISH IMPACT AT LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK SUMMER/RESORT 2014

Mumbai, 13^th March 2014: Known for her unusual variety of prints for several seasons starting with doodles, then moving onto legendary heroes and Indian heritage followed by musical instruments and animals, Aarti Vijay Gupta’s collection at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014 was a “Indian Miniatures” story that created maximum impact on the ramp. Inspired by the paintings from 16-19 centuries there were portraits, court scenes, flora and fauna which were all cleverly juxtaposed to create a visual story of those eras.

Arti Vijay Gupta

Style detailing was interesting with keyhole halter peplum blouses, waisted frocks, long lean tubes, asymmetric mini smocks, tailored sheath with short sleeves and cholis with flat collars.

Arti Vijay Gupta

When women want to make an artistic statement with their fashion, then Aarti Vijay Gupta’s stylish “Indian Miniatures” will achieve it.

SHIKHA GROVER AND VINITA ADHIKARI PRESENTED AN INNOVATIVE BEEHIVE OF STYLISH CREATIONS AT LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK SUMMER/RESORT 2014

Taking a cue from nature, the designing duo Shikha Grover and Vinita Adhikari presented an exciting collection called “Beehive Yourself” for their label “Ilk” at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014. 

ILK by Shikha and Vinita

A black and white bee print buzzed all over sexy shorts, loose jacket and midriff revealing blouse. A two tone sari – with black net and dusty pink mesh had the floral motifs sprinkled on the pallav while the ornate raglan sleeves and back of the black choli were in total contrast. 

ILK by Shikha and Vinita

PREM AND KHUSHBOO’S ODE TO THE COLOUR BLUE WAS A SCINTILLATING COLLECTION AT LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK SUMMER/RESORT 2014

Prem and Khushboo visualised for their label “Khem” a collection that brought the colour blue to the forefront at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014. Called “Dreams in Prussian Blue”, the duo’s collection was a sensuous evening wear line of cocktail tunics and floor kissing dresses. 

Khem

Stopping the show was Rakul Preet Singh star of the latest movie “Yaariyan” who looked ravishing in a shaded white/blue tulle gown with embroidered bodice.

Khem

Softly moulded sheaths were highlighted by cascading motifs on bodices and skirts. Chandelier pleated sleeves added a new dimension to slim dresses, geometric tops were patched/layered and a velvet petal dress was a stunning addition. 

PALLAVI SINGHEE PRESENTED A POETIC COLLECTION OF FEMININE CREATIONS AT LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK SUMMER/RESORT 2014

Since 2007 Pallavi Singhee’s label “Verb” has been a hot selling women’s wear brand. At Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014, the designer presented her collection called “Poetic” which was a stylish blend of sharp tailoring and clean lines aimed at the modern jet setting women. 

Verb

Washed out shades of beige, off-white, claret and grey had large doses of black for fabrics that ranged from mul and chiffon to tulle, voile, satin and lace. Pallavi paid attention to detailing as she added appliqués, French knots, pearls and ribbing to highlight the garments

Verb

When it came to the silhouettes, they were structured constructions that revealed some interesting quaint drapes and shapes. The overall look of the collection was very fragile, feminine, romantically vintage and somewhat whimsical in nature. 

SAILEX PRESENTED AN EXTRAORDINARY LINE  OF STYLISH WOMEN’S WEAR AT LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK SUMMER/RESORT 2014

Mumbai, 13^th March 2014: Bringing to the forefront of fashion at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014, Sailex presented a stunning line of stylish women’s wear that fitted in perfectly with the rising mercury.The theme was the subtle transition of the undercurrents of the inner tectonic shifts appearing as light ripples on the surface which Sailex cleverly translated as shibori for a major part of the show.

Dividing his collection into colour stories starting with cream, grey and then Graphite, grey orange and salmon orange; Sailex unleashed high octane evening wear, impeccably tailored with distinct style directions. The fabrics were 100 percent pure silk, crepe, georgette, flat chiffon, organza and satin. Tuxedos with swallow tail shirt, pencil skirts, pea coats, cape and T-shirt dresses, oversized maxi ensembles, calf length creations, crepe jumpsuits, tuxedo playsuit with satin dungarees were amazing construction statements.

But where Sailex scored was on the innovation quotient when he took embellishments to a different level. Selecting the humble hook eye and snap buttons from his sewing box, he turned them into unbelievable motifs that were used ingeniously to add glitter to the garments.

The two saris were an offering to the ethnic wearer with mother-of- pearl embellishments in crepe georgette with shibori pallav worn with stretch satin blouse. Another graphite crepe sari with a satin shibori pallav had snap button décor. Utterly feminine, beautifully crafted, each entry was well conceived for a long lasting impact on the wearer as well as the viewer.

When a woman wants to make a fashion transition from casual to ultra formal creations, Sailex has fashion directions of extraordinary elegance and beauty.

Sailex

Sailex

Sailex

PAYAL SINGHAL’S MOROCCAN FASHION SOIRÉE WAS A TANTALIZING COLLECTION AT LAKMÉ FASHION WEEK SUMMR/RESORT 2014

Inspired by French Moroccan culture and architecture, the collection called “Lady Sahara” by Payal Singhal was homage to Marrakech and the beauty of Islamic culture at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2014. 

Luxurious tulle, mul, brocade, stylish linen and silk in soft shades of sand, grey, rose and cerulean blue along with intricate patterns of Moroccan filigree work were reflected in the beaten silver, gold and salmon ‘kora’ and graphic prints. Simple, stylish yet unique silhouettes were the highlight of the show, as the serene but beautiful garments glided down the ramp on stately models.

Interesting fashion directions given by Payal were cut-outs on shoulders, shirt tail, translucent hemlines that swished around the models’ legs, the elegant elbow length sleeves and the print-on-print story which is so popular for Summer/Resort 2014

Scene stealers were the Sahara print jumpsuit with organza overlay skirt, churidar-skirts which were teamed with cholis, cut-out shoulders, ankle length linen shirt dress, raised hem, tulle kurta and the ghagra-sharara pants. The use of embroidery was unconventional as geometrics, shrub and stone tulle ogee techniques added to the glamour and glitter of the outfits.

Stopping the show was Bollywood beauty Neha Dhupia in a black linen sleeveless long shift layered with a stone square cutwork tulle half wrap skirt.

Payal Singhal’s “Lady Sahara” collection made a stunning impact on the ramp, which will surely influence the sartorial preferences of stylish women during the coming summer months.

Payal Singhal

Payal Singhal

Payal Singhal